Solar Cell Array Charger with Regulator circuit can be used to charge batteries from a solar cell array. The 
circuit consists of an oscillator, a DC-DC step-up or ‘boost’ converter 
and a regulator that pro-vides regulation of the output voltage.The 
oscillator is built around a hex Schmitt trigger inverter IC, the 
40106B, one resistor, R1, inserted between the input and the output of 
one of the gates in the 40106 to supply charge to C3. Depending on the 
values of resistor R1 and capacitor C3 you’re using in the circuit, the 
oscillator will operate at different frequencies, but a frequency below 
100 kHz is recommended. 
By consequence, the oscillator frequency should 
not exceed the maximum ripple frequency of capacitor C2 connected on the
 output. C2 should be an electrolytic capacitor with a DC working 
voltage larger than the desired output voltage. Besides, it should have a
 low ESR (equivalent series resistance). 
Solar Cell Array Charger with Regulator Circuit Diagram :
IC1A is used as a buffer, ensuring that the oscillator sees a light, 
fairly constant load and so guaranteeing that the output frequency 
remains stable (within limits, of course). VCC of the Schmitt trigger 
can be connected directly to the battery charged, provided the charged 
batter y voltage does not exceed the max. or min. limits of the Schmitt 
trigger’s supply voltage. This ensures the Schmitt trigger can operate 
even if little power is obtained from the solar cell array. 
When
 transistor T2 is turned on, (output from oscillator buffer IC1A is 
high), a collector current flows through inductor L1 which stores the 
energy as a magnetic field and creates a negative voltage VL1. When 
transistor T2 is switched off, (output from oscillator buffer IC1A is 
low), the negative voltage VL1 switches polarity and adds to the voltage
 from the solar cell array. Consequently, current will now flow trough 
the inductor coil L1 via diode D1 to the load (capacitor C2 and possibly
 the battery), irrespective of the output voltage level. 
Capacitor
 C2 and/or the battery will then be charged. So, in the steady state the
 out-put voltage is higher than the input voltage and the coil voltage 
VL1 is negative, which leads to a linear drop in the current flowing 
through the coil. In this phase, energy is again transferred from the 
coils to the out-put. Transistor T2 is turned on again and the process 
is repeated. A type BC337 (or 2N2222) is suggested for T2 as it achieves
 a high switching frequency. Inductor L1 should have a saturation 
current larger than the peak current; have a core material like ferrite 
(i.e. high-frequency) and low-resistance. Diode D1 should be able to 
sustain a forward current larger than the maxi-mum anticipated current 
from the source. It should also exhibit a small forward drop and a 
reverse voltage spec that’s higher than the output voltage. If you can 
find an equivalent Schottky diode in the junk box, do feel free to use 
it. 
The most important function of the shunt regulator around 
T1 is to protect the batteries from taking damage due to overcharging. 
Besides, it allows the output voltage to be regulated. Low-value 
resistor R3 is switched in parallel with the solar cell array by T1 so 
that the current from the solar cell array flows through it. Zener diode
 D2 is of course essential in this circuit as its zener voltage limits 
the output voltage when T1 should be turned on, connecting the solar 
cell array to ground via R3. In this way, there is no input voltage to 
the boost converter and the battery cannot be overcharged. 
Sealed
 lead-acid (SLA) batteries with a liquid electrolyte produce gas when 
over-charged, which can ultimately result in damage to the battery. So, 
it’s important to choose the right value for zener diode D2. Special 
lead-acid batteries for solar use are available, with improved 
charge-discharge cycle reliability and lower self-discharge than 
commercially-available automotive batteries. 
Finally, never 
measure directly on the out-put without a load connected the ripple 
current can damage your voltmeter (unless it’s a 1948 AVO mk2). 
 



 
 
 
 
0 comments:
Post a Comment